Danny wine Talk
Nothing more than a man who cared enough to try .
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South France, Wine with Passion
For a tourist, South France is definitely a seductive place, which boasts a rich, multicultural history, great music and no shortage of spectacular vista, awash in brilliant Mediterranean colors. For a wine professional, South France normally stands for nothing, but cheap bulk wines and large productions slaking consumers’ thirst. However, this stereotype only deep roots in wine professionals who have not attended Vinisud yet.
I had the honor to attend Vinisud 2012, and I was amazed by the fully possible ranges of south France wines: Its white wines could perfectly display their full body Mediterranean character, especially those from Bandol and Clape; its roses are remarkably smooth with attractive fruity; its reds feature all of subtle conferred by region’s irreplaceable terroir.
In hall 1, there is a huge show room of wines from Languedoc Roussillon. It is world’s largest vineyard, which ascended up the slope of natural amphitheatre formed by mountains that embrace the entire region. To the east, the “pebble rocks” in Costiere de Nimes forms a natural border in Gare. To the west, the imposing Canigou massif dominates Roussillon Plan. To the South, the well known rocky region Banyuls plunges into Mediterranean sea.
The presentation was extremely interesting: At first glance, thousands of bottles were thickly dotted in lines on several long tables. If you move closer, you will find all of them were carefully categorized by variety and wine regions. For instance, at the head of the table, there is a sign marked : Granache. All bottles on this table are Granache from all over South France. In addition, they are self-service. Help yourself, don’t be shy.
I’m always fascinated by Languedoc indigenous grape varieties. However, The trend of globalization in wine industry is steadily and inexorably knitting diversities into uniformity. Those names like Piquepol, Vermentino and Bourboulenc are sadly fading away; instead, Pinot Noir, Syrah or Chardonnay are “a la mode” in every corner. Even Languedoc Roussillon, famous for its openness and dynamic, widely uprooted its local vines and replanted those fashionable grapes as well.
Fortunately, there are still some wine growers abiding by traditions. I was surprised to find several bottles of Terret Gris. I have only tasted this grape once which was 4 years ago In Vatel Nimes hotel Management School. At that time, Terret Gris was the house wine in my school, but only existed on the wine list for 3 months. Terret Blanc and Gris used to be as popular as Chardonnay in South France, which widely spreaded in Minervois and Corbiere. In favourable vintage, it will appear to be very full body and complex. However, it rapidly disappear after 1990s. Only a few producers still keep working on this dejected variety, one of my favourite is a 100% Terret Gris from Clos des Sud. The enologist Mr. Pierre Aliste did his best to keep the last 2 hectares, regardless the suggestion of ” replace by chardonnay”. His Terrets are planted on south facing slope and Causse soil. His wine has firm acidity, great complexity with distinctive mineral notes, which costs as little as 3 euros. “I wish I was born in Burgundy, in this case I could at least triple my price” he joked.
Most big producers, negociants and wine cooperatives congregated in Hall 12, 5, 6 and 7. They proned to have large and luxury exhibition stands, even lounge bars with fancy chairs, bathed in golden halos of ceiling lights. As long as you move approach, you will be surrounded by their tall and beautiful sales girls (Hall 5, Sicily).
I stopped at a large Negociant’s stand: DMD (Domaine Montariol Degroote).It produces 8 million bottles per year and has 7 vineyards in South France, one in Bordeaux, and 3 overseas. However, 95% of tasting samples were bulk wine under 3 euros per bottle. The only “decent” wine I tasted was a AOC Cabardes. The export director Mr.Thomas Delaude warmly greeted me with a great smile on his face:
“hello my friend! Have a glass of wine and make yourself at home. Tell me where are you from, which company do you work for”.
I told him that I am currently a student in a master program of wine business and not working for any company. His smile suddenly disappeared like someone wiped it away, and left without saying a word.
Fortunately, Mas de Daumas Gassac offered me a much better treatment. Daumas Gassac is big start in Languedoc Roussillon. Not only because of its high visibility in the film Modovino, but also because of its consistency in Biodynamic and finest quality. Mr. Renaud Thillaye offered me all their tasting samples, even some of them were only exclusive for “big guys”. I was strongly impressed by their 2010 white. This wine manages to combine massive grape varieties: Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, Marssane and even Chenin Blanc. Fresh, complex and exuberant nose, packed with citrus, tropical fruits and floral. In palate, it was rich in nuts and dry fruits, fine acidity and fresh texture, and has a great aging potential.
Provence and Bondol were gathered in Hall 10. This region has the most remarkable sunshine and vast range of landscapes. Various winds sweep through, which allows the grapes to reach maximum maturity without spoiling. I will never miss the rose with sexy bottle from Chateau Minuty (Provence), powerful red from Domaine de Tempier which has a genius enologist Daniel Ravier (Bandol), and the famous melange of Syrah and Cabernet from Domaine de Trevallon (Provance). Those wines take me back to an amazing voyage in Cote d’Azur
I love south France wines, even if its reputation used to down in the dumps because of the famous” Bordeaux Fraud” and ubiquitous Vin de Table. Fortunately, thanks to EU funding and local peoples’ epiphany, they started to combine their traditional know-how and cutting edge techniques. Now they believe that their future lies in producing less, but better. Like Toro and Priorat in Spain, innovative and dynamic, South France is back on stage and radiate vitality!
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Interview with Dr.Tourmean
Several months ago, I had a honor to talk to Dr. July Tourmean, a burgundy wine expert working for INAO ( Institut National des Appelations D’ origine) since 1965. He is also the author of a best seller book Guide pratique de la degustation. We had a long discussion about burgundy wine classification and some anecdotes going on in Burgundy and Bordeaux.
Q: In September, there was blind tasting for the finest Bordeaux. The results conveyed by the best wine tasters were shocking: As a virtual unknown, Reignac emerged at the stage of the finest Bordeaux, and surprisingly ranked the second among all the big wines. What is your opinion about this tasting tournament, and how do you think about the cost performances of Grands Crus Classe ?
A: Some one may use this isolated incident to question the Grand Cru Classe system. The system was created in 1855, the authorities of certain grands crus obviously no longer have the power that they did once. However, the advantage of keeping the Grands crus classes system will far weight annulling it. If you want to purchase a great bottle, you will minimize your risk by choosing from the Grands Crus Classe.
Reignac is an exception, It is ranked as bordeaux superieur. I don’t believe its terrois is better than the other Grands crus, Cheval blanc, Ausone for instance. What makes it splendid is the winemaker’s skill. Nonetheless, Human power is always limited. This wine may not have a great aging potential or a good persistence, and all of these were gifted by the nature.
Q: How about in Burgundy? Is there any chance for an obscure wine beating the finest Grands crus?
A: I will say: the chance is nearly a “zero”. Because our Cru classe system is more scientific and logic compared with that in Bordeaux. The idea of classification was firstly mentioned up in 1913, and a lot of arguments and researches were taking place afterwards. Finally, in 1935, the classification was legalized. We got the Grands Crus (by the way, La grande rue was not on the list at that time), 1er crus, village and regional.
I can say that there is nearly no chance for a Village or regional wine to defeat a Grand Cru. Because of the location of vineyard, the micro-climate, soil, etc, all the factors which matter to make great wine will peg a “little wine” back in its rivalry with the Grands Crus.
Q: Is there really no chance left for the village or regional wines? Will the wine maker’s skills make a difference?
A: Don’t forget we are in Burgundy, not in Bordeaux. In Bordeaux, “melange” (mix) is totally allowed. Even if there is a bad year or the terrois is inferior, the wine maker still have enough room to improve their wines. However, In Burgundy, only Pinot noir and Chardonnay are used. Once the terrois or the weather is not satisfying, the wine makers can’t do much about that.
Q: Rugiens and Epenot, the two 1er crus in Pommard, are applying to upgrade their class to Grand Cru. As a committee member of AOC, do you think is there any chance for them?
A: Personally, I do not agree to upgrade the two 1er crus, even if their wines really carry the Grand crus quality. If we make them the grands crus, on non-precedential basis, unexpected ripple effects may be triggered. For instance, Savigny les Beaune, St Jacque in Chambertin, Perriere in Meursault may all ask for upgrading as well. In this case, the entire Crus Classe system might be subverted.
Good wines need no bush. As long as the domaines produce good quality wines, they don’t necessarily have to join the Grands Crus in order to be appreciated. A 1er crus could also sell their wines at the same price as a Grand cru does, or even higher. As a 1er cru, Armand Rousseau Gevrey Chambertin Clos St Jacques rouge is much more expensive than most grands crus from Corton or Vougot..
Q: Could you please recommend us some wines with high cost performance?
A: Domaine Harmend Geoffroy, Gevery Chambertin.
Brouilly Alain Michaud, Beaujolais Cru
Morgon Alain Michaud, Beaujolais Cru
Domaine de la Ferte / Domaine Joblot Clos de la Servoisine Givry
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The future of Gamay?
Can you remember the last time you drank a Gamay? If you were not opening any top bottles from Beaujolais Crus, I assume the only respond from you is simply a shrug.
As well know, Gamay is something of forgotten wine. It is also the unwanted child of Duke Philippe le Hardi, who personally drove out Gamay to Beaujolais on purpose to sustain the purity in lineage of Birgundy cepages . Gamay in Beaujolais made its reputation mostly by Beaujolais Nouveau, a fruity, light and easy drinking new wine. Even serious Wine makers seldom keep Gamay in oak, and undergo an unusual fermentation “carbonic maceration”, which generates distinctive banana and cherry fruit notes. However, if you believe everybody is dealing with gamay in the same way, well, you are gonna see something really interesting.
Please picture this in your mind: 40 years old vines, very low yield, 100% new French oak, long aging in barrel. Most of you might have those names flashing: garage wine, cult wine, premiums Bordeaux… But, how about Gamay from Burgundy!
Villars Fontaine, in Haute Cote de Nuit, is a traditional vineyard fully focusing on old burgundy wine making method. The cost they put in making their gamay could even humilate most Grands crus producers.. All of their Gamay are suited on the best slope of Montagne de Villars. They strictly control the yield at 38 hl per hectare, and use 100% new French oak. Even more shocking, the oak aging period is as long as 60 months!
They have a huge cellar which was constructed 6 meters underground. Even in a cold winter like in Burgundy, the cellar could constantly maintain around 8 degree without any heater or air condition. More than 4000 barrels lie entranced, thick, beneath golden halos of ceiling light.
“I am the pilgrim of traditional wine making”, said M. LAISNEY Antoine, oenologist of Villars Fontaine, while he was gently stirring his glass of wine. “Serious wines need patience, like extend maceration and long aging. Otherwise, you are making industrial wines. They might taste fair when young. But it dose not matter your wines come from Bordeaux or Burgundy, they all taste the same after 5 years.”
A bottle named “Gamay du futur” is the proud opus of Mr. Bernard Hudelot, who is the head oenologist and owner of Villars. “this wine perfectly conveyed my philosophy of wine making: a wine to keep!”, said Mr. Hudelot. “Gamay is a younger brother of Pinot Noir. As long as it is 15 years old, it has nothing to envy its big brother”. Therefore, he heavily invested on gamay with new oaks and long aging period, to make his gamay firm, tannic and has great potential for aging.
Another reason which makes M. Hudelot into Gamay is the effect of climate change. In around 1098, the Citeaux came to Cote de Nuit and brough 300 years’ flourish in both Pinot noir and Gamay, because the climate was hot at that time.From 1350 to 1850, Burgundy climate was getting very cold which only favored Pinot Noir. This also explains why Phillipe le Hardi expelled Gamay from Burgundy. Now, we are facing the hottest climate in human history, perhaps it’s time to cheer the return of Gamay.
Gamay du Futur 02 has very complex nose, dry flowers, boiled fruits, clove, and acacia. Round and smooth, with chocolate and oak flavors. However, the notes of oak are over dominating. This wine might still hold for some years, but I don’t think it could benefit from aging. Overall, it’s an interesting wine but lack of delicacy. But I still have faith on this wine’s future. If they continue to put lots of efforts on gamay, which dose not necessarily mean 100% oak and 60 months aging, they could successfully change most people’s stereotype eventually.
However, no matter how bright the future seems to be, according to French regulations, as long as gamay is produced in Cote de Nuit, it is sidelined from any prestigious appellations, like “village, 1er etc”. In this case, this Gamay could only carry the “Bourgogne Grande Ordinaire”, even if selling price is at least 35 euros.
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EWBC, telling story about wines.
I started my wine blog in Chinese for quite a long time. I used to be satisfied about my articles. I thought they were educative, professional and objective. At that time I was very complacent, especially when I found my blogs full of sophisticated terms and charts: efeuiilage, eclaicissage, micro-oxygen… Wow, they made me look like a maestro!
However, the response from the public was annoying: I did not have many followers!
In 2011, I had the honor to attend EWBC (European Wine Blog Conference) held in Brescia, Italy, wishing that my affliction will be solved during this conference. That small Roman town attracted more than 200 most influential wine bloggers in the world. This conference mainly focused on discussing the convergence between the wine and web. During this conference, I expressed my confuse to Mark Norman, CEO of Cave Nil Vino, why my blogs are not attractive. He looked at me, almost laughing at my anxiety. ” You might have done some researches on wines, and your blogs might be full of knowledge. But you are generally repeating, not creating. 90% of other bloggers are doing the same. How could you appeal your readers by saying the same crap?” He said.
I looked at him without a word. Mark might think I was a little bit embarrassed, and he comforted me:” don’t worry, young boy. You are not alone. Lacking of differentiation is a general problem for wine industry, especially for wine producers. On their websites, what you can find are only ratings, Parker’s score, a gold medal here and a silver medal there. If I was not a wine professional but a consumer, I might never bother to read them.”
His words embedded me. Do we really understand our readers? As wine professionals, we may be interested by the terroirs, we will be shocked if a Grand cru was degraded to a 1er cru, and we might be excited to find the truffle flavor in a 5 euros young wine.
However, we are not supposed to project consumers to the same position as we are. What is valuable to wine professionals may not be the same to consumers. Wine professionals would try so hard to collect information which they believe useful to readers, but their readers just do not care.
Therefore, wine bloggers have to obtain the right skill in order to appeal wine lovers. I met George Taber during the lunch breakr, who is the famous reporter for the “Judgement of Paris”. He gave me his suggestions for wine bloggers:” Storytelling is the key point! You have to find the people and stories, find the difference. When you write about wines, do your research and go deep. What you have to do in your blogs is to bring your stories alive.”
Most wine writers, including me, want to make their works look intelligent and informative, but often neglect the importance of storytelling. What we really need is not the profound knowledge about wine, but the appreciation and expression of beauties and uniqueness. As what George said, we find the beauties and differences in wines and simply express it out. The natural flow will be the best article we’ve ever written.
“It is very happy to meet you” said George Taber, in the end of lunch break. He was smileing as he was looking at his old acquaintance. “In my new book “a toast to bargain wines”. I predicted that new world countries, especially China and Indian, will amaze the wine world. Knowing you has just confirmed my idea. It is a great pleasure to have new world wine writers to join us! ”
